Context not Content

In the western world, we would like to think that the things we say are worth saying. This, of course, is not always the case. We say things that we don’t mean. Or mean things we don’t say. Or say mean things that we ought not to have said. You get my point. In general though, the content of our speech is important to us regardless of how successful we are at producing quality. In Benin, it is often a little different. 

In this cordial country, context is king. This is especially applicable when it comes to salutations. Oral salutations are mandatory whenever feasible; a wave or a head nod simply won’t suffice.  This means, for example, that drivers regularly stop driving in the middle of the road in order to greet other drive that they know. 

My absolute favorite greeting is A do fine à? – Are you here? The answer, of course, is always, Een, un do fi. – Yes, I am here. Outside of a profound, metaphysical discussion, this question seems to be exceedingly banal and its answer to be equally self-evident. 

This is where context is vital. The greeter is not in doubt as to the presence of the greetee. The questioner is merely acknowledging the latters presence. In other words, it’s simply a greeting, the content of which matters not. 

Several other examples of greetings are as follows:

A de wu à? – Are you in the middle? This is used here when the greetee is simply in the middle of some action. It is an encouraging remark, implying that the person is working hard. 

Azon yi atòn – It’s been three days. This is how you would greet someone that you haven’t seen for a while, regardless of how much time has elapsed since you last saw them. The best part is the response, Dokpo d’eji – And one more.  This is a wonderful example of the importance of context over content. 

There are many more examples of this throughout the language and culture. 

Pâte et Sauces

The Beninese diet is built around two things: pâte and sauces.

Pâte is a simple staple consisting of a large quantity of corn flour mixed into hot water. The final product is a molten hot, gelatinous substance that is poured into a bowl. As it cools, it takes on the shape of the container and the outside becomes firm. This bowl shaped blob is turned over onto a plate and served with a sauce.

Sauces are extremely important to the Beninese diet and offer a variety of flavors and nutritional value to the otherwise unchanging pâte. So far I have had several sauces.

Sauce de legume seems to be a tomato and palm oil-based sauces with the leaves of an indigenous plant’s leaves mixed in. There is also dried fish mixed in sometimes. This sauce is good

Crincrin is a sauce made out of a plant of the same name. This sauce is notorious among Peace Corps Volunteers. Before trying it, I had only heard that it had the consistency of snot and to avoid it if at all possible. When my host family made if for me two nights ago I found that it was actually delicious. I would say the sauce has more in common with melted mozzarella cheese; that is, if melted mozzarella was green and plant-based with some stems in it.

Sauce de moringa is so far my favorite. Moringa is made from another local plant that is actually a super food. It contains a tremendous amount of protein and various B vitamins. The sauce also has spicy peppers and peanut oil in it to add more complexity.

How to eat . . .

You eat pâte and an accompanying sauce with the right hand only. You take a ball of pâte (being careful not to sear the skin off of your fingers on the lava interior) and put the ball in the sauce. Then you pick up the glob of sauce-dipped pâte and put it in your mouth. Then repeat. Proper technique involves using your four fingers held together like a shovel and rotating the wrist in oder to dump the delicious glob onto your tongue. You should not have to tip your head back.

For the record, hand washing is mandatory before and after eating.

Note:

Be aware that you will most likely be fed more than you can possibly eat. “Hoto gohoun” is how you say I am full in Fon, the local language. Bon appetit!